Serious Bloggin' no G

Friday 30th November 2018 - Estepona, nearly!

Yesterday we stopped at San Pedro which is just south of the swish resort of Puerto Banus with its grand harbour and posh yachts (it's posher than its neighbour Marbella).  

Janice has been at it again.....

We thought the photo at Peniscola was funny but this is taking it too far!

She wanted a trade in for the camper van for this!  Not really, we prefer the van.

The weather has been great for a couple of days and our wild camp place was perfect, just across the road from a nice promenade (probably EU funded). It was also very quiet.

Nice car park just for us.

 I mentioned that we thought we could see the North coast of Africa...well I can confirm that it is Africa as it has been particularly clear today and I managed this shot, just to prove it....

During the early evening we were treated to a cycling and running display by a group of of children who were getting a coaching session on the (otherwise empty) car park.  We think that most of the kids were English aged from about 4-11 years old.  We couldn't help comment on the lack of H&S and supervision they were getting as they rode on public roads and around the block.  Just drawing comparisons with what would be expected in the UK.  Anyway, it was good to watch them enjoying themselves.

Today we moved to a site near Estepona, it was only about 7 miles away.  The site is good and we got a pleasant greeting at reception, a fairly rare occurrence.  There is even an indoor pool.  Maybe it will be warm enough to go in.

Again, we tried to cycle into Estepona, only 6 miles away.  We wouldn't go on the dual carriageway because it is so narrow, especially on the cycling side and their is no parallel roads.  So we tried to wriggle our way around the tracks...they looked like roads on my mapping app!

Me thinks the road has been washed away.  We admitted failure again.  The Vuelta Espania wouldn't put up with conditions like this so why should we.  The weather was so good we didn't mind because we enjoyed the ride anyway.  I suspect Estepona has a nice beach, long prom with beach bars and restaurants along its length, like most of the other places we have been.  There isn't much variety in the resorts but I'm not complaining.

We have been enjoying a local radio station called Memory FM, it's like a perpetual music quiz from the 70s and 80s.  What it really refreshing is that it is constant music without DJ's drivelling on.  However, now we have a good wifi link we have been listening to Steve Wright in the Afternoon on the Internet.  He does a Friday slot called "Serious Jockin with no G", I suppose we can call this "Serious Bloggin..no G".

As Janice is a quarter Scottish we are aware that it is St Andrews Day.  Sadly, we have forgotten to bring any tartan kilts but I have been looking for a kaber or a hammer to toss.  I have a hammer but it's only good for knocking pegs into the ground.  With any luck Janice may give me a Highland Fling!  We do have a bottle of Old Pulteney Whisky from Wick.

Yes, I've been in the pool.  It was lovely.

New Hairstyle!

Wednesday 28th November 2018 - Cabopino.

The place we are staying sounds like a good name for a wine.....Cabernet and Pinot Noir?

The day started perfectly.  The sun was shining and the sea was blue.  We exercised on the beach and then took chairs and coffee on the beach too.

We took a couple of photos...

I even took a selfie...

I had no idea when I took the picture that I had a palm tree sprouting from the top of my head.  It gives a good idea of what my hair would look like if I didn't get it cut on top.  I think it could become fashionable...one day?

As I said yesterday, we intended to cycle to Marbella.  However, the roads are totally rubbish for cycling from here.  We hoped that there was a route along the beach (shown on Google maps)....there was a route...it was along the beach and totally unsuitable for riding!  Have you tried riding along a sandy beach on a road bike?  So we ended up pushing our bikes along the beach for about an hour and a half and we still hadn't got within 6 kilometres of Marbella.  The problem was a lack of a parallel road to the beach.  All roads went away from the beach and up to a dual carriageway that we weren't willing to cycle along.

Not a bad beach though.  Janice didn't have to push both bikes but she is soooo kind!

And the paella for lunch compensated for the disappointment of not reaching Marbella.

One of the nuisances of this area is the African guys who patrol the beach selling all sorts of fake goods.  Why do they allow it!  It spoils a lovely relaxing time on the beach and in the bars.  It is a constant flow of people trying to sell handbags, then jewellery, then pashminas, then watches or sweaters.  It is totally organised by a Gangmaster and it spoils a good day out.  The guy next to us made the mistake of asking the price of a watch and spent the next 15-20 minutes trying to get rid of the seller.  What a plonker!

Back to Cabopino and we had a little sunbathe on the beach and in the evening we walked into the harbour area to see the sunset.

The first sunset photo doesn't show very well, but we are sure we can see the rock of Gibraltar and the coast of North Africa.

Good Decision.

Tuesday 27th November 2018 - Cabopino, Near Marbella.

We left Santa Fe on Sunday morning after Janice was approached by a drug dealer with a wrap of something dodgy.  He pulled up in his car to the side of the motorhome and showed Janice his wares through the window.  Janice gave an abrupt shake of the head and he drove off quickly.  I was oblivious to what was going on....I'm not such a great protector am I!  She made a good decision.

We had been trying to decide where to go next.  We had choices of Corboba, Ronda or back to the coast near Nerja.  Nerja won the debate on the basis of a better weather forecast.  We thought that we could do Córdoba (definately worth seeing) on the way north after New Year.

We arrived at Nerja looking for a site so that we could refresh our water supplies and get some clothes washing done but the site we had targeted looked a bit grotty around the entrance.  So, we moved further along the coast to the site that we have pre booked for Christmas and New Year.  It wouldn't do any harm to check it out in advance.  It is near Torres del Mar.

The site was almost empty.  The ACSI camp site book showed that it closed in October but for the first time they had decided to stay open all year round.  As a result of the camping book they weren't very busy and I chatted to the receptionist who said that they weren't very busy at Christmas either.  That suits us fine.  The site was actually as good as any site we have visited in Spain (not a patch on the Caravan Club standards though).  The toilet block was large and clean, the pitches were well spaced and the direct access to the beach was good.....and for the first time, the reception staff were all friendly and smiled!

This is the beach outside the camp site.

It is a short walk to the small town of Almayate and a short cycle ride into Torres del Mar. 

This is the bay at Torres.  The town wasn't a high rise resort and it seemed to have plenty to offer.  As always, a nice promenade.  We reckoned that it was cycleable to Nerja in one direction and to Malaga in the other.  Overall, we were really happy with the site choice to stay here for 11 nights over the Christmas  period.  We stayed two nights and got all our chores done.  Good decision.

This morning we moved on to wild camp again.  We headed for a drive through Torremolinos (we never actually got onto the seafront) on to Mijas, a small Andalusian village in the hills.  We only just a managed the small windy roads up to the village but couldn't find our wild camp destination and couldn't turn round either.  Bad decision.  We eventually gave it a miss on the basis that the roads were too narrow and couldn't find a place to stay overnight.  We continued back to the coast to Cabopino where we have found a nice car park near the beach.  The beach is nice and we wound down with a beer at one of the beachside bars.

This is the bay where we are staying. If it is good tonight we may stay again tomorrow and cycle in to Marbella where the jet set stay!  Whether that is a good decision....we will see?

Potted History of Spain.

Sunday 25th November 2018.

Here is my (very short) version of the History of Spain.  I take no responsibility for any mistakes or perceived insults to the Spanish people or nation.

Iberian tribes

Phoenicians settled in some coastal areas

Romans till 4th Century AD

Visigoths till 8th Century AD

Moors till 11th Century AD covered all but the north of Spain.  Ruled by the Caliphate of Córdoba, receding gradually but hung on in Córdoba and Granada areas till defeated at Granada in 1492 by the Catholic Rulers, Isabel of Castile and Fernando of Aragon. 

Catholics Kings and Queens ruled from North Spain and eventually all of Spain.

1492 - Columbus discovers Americas, he is Italian from Genoa, lived in Portugal for early adulthood and sailed for Spain.

16th Century - Spanish expansion in Americas - Mexico, Argentina, Peru, Chile, Cuba, Hispaniola, Columbia.  Also control Netherlands and Low Countries, probably through marriage of the Monarchs.

1588 - lose Spanish Armada, 133 ships invading England against Drake.  What a shame!

17th Century Golden Era - Art and enlightenism but weakening Empire.

War of Spanish Succession 1701-1714 -  end of Hapsburg family branch of Spanish monarchs and victorious Bourbon (French) family - fought around Europe.  Philip V of Anjou named King. Spain loses European territories. in Italy, Low Countries, Austria.  Britain gains Spain's trade rights in Americas and possession of Gibraltar.

Napoleonic Wars - Defeat of Spanish and French Fleet by Admiral Nelson at Battle of Trafalgar 1805 off coast of Cadiz.  

Napoleons brother Joseph becomes King of Spain 1808-1814.  Virtual rule by French.

War of Independence (Peninsular War) to oust French from Spain.  Duke of Wellington and British help win Battle of Talavera against French in 1809.

1898 Cuba and Philippines win War of Independence against Spain - 50,000 Spanish die. Last Colony from Americas.

Beginning of 1900's - Period of General unrest - Anarchists, Comminists, Republicans.

Nationalist General Franco came to power 1935-1975 - supported by Hitler and Mussolini.  Civil War 1935-1939 after which Franco executed remaining Republicans.  Spain largely irrelevant during Second World War but nominally allied to Germans.  Many Spanish volunteers fought with Germany on the Eastern Front with agreement of Franco but Franco was determined not to been seen to fight against the Western Alliance although he tended towards Hitler for support.

After 1945 internationally isolated till 1955 when US accept Spain into UN in return for agreeing to US military bases in Spain.

1962 Start of tourism boom into Spain.

1968 and 1969 Spain won the Eurovision Song Contest - won in 1968 with La, La, La and equal winners with Lulu's Boom Bang a Bang in 1969.  A big moment for Spanish History!

1975 Franco dies return to Monarchy and 1977 democracy.

1986 join EU and NATO.

2014 - Spain won World Cup.

Current King is Felipe VI.

Alhambra

Saturday 24th November 2018 - Granada.

I will post a few pictures.  They speak for themselves.

How's that?

Granada Studio Tours.

Friday 23rd November 2018 - Granada or is it Manchester?

We arrived yesterday in Granada looking forward to doing the Studio Tours in the place that made Coronation Street, Krypton Factor, World on Action and more favourites including.....Sooty and Sweep!  We were really disappointed to find out that there was only an Alhambra and a Catherdral, most cities have a Cathedral and even Keswick has an Alhambra Cinema!

As it turns out Granada has lots of history from the period of the Moors and the Renaissance period of the Catholic monarchs.  We were actually very excited to come and see the UNESCO World Heritage site of the Alhambra, Janice has been before and loved it and it was high on my list of places to see.

We found our wild camp place.  It's a bit cheeky because it's in a residential area above the old town area near the old town wall.  We are parked in a street parking bay so we get some traffic coming and going but it's quiet at night.  There are another three or four camper vans as well on the same street.  One van is British and we had Graham and Denise over for drinks last night.  They are from the Surrey area but are originally from Huddersfield and Tynemouth respectively.  We only have to walk through the old town walls to get a stunning view of the whole city.

Not a bad view, you can even see snow on the Sierra Nevada mountains in the background.  You get a good impression of the Alhambra and below us is the area called The Albaicin which comprises the old town, narrow cobbled lanes and quaint white houses.

The Albaicin is lovely with the river Darro at the bottom and lots of lovely lanes running through the area.  The road leads to the Place Nuevo....

This is the Real Chancilleria, built by the Catholic Monarchs in 1530.

We walked a short way out of the city this morning to see the Abadia del Sacramonte....

It is a large building that is rather delapidated from the outside but the cloister, the chapel and the caves were very interesting.  It was not very touristy either (which is a plus point for us).  The Spanish guide tried to give us information in English and we managed to learn two things......the Patron Saint of Granada was Cecillio and he was martyred in the caves at the Abadia AND most importantly the best place for lunch in Granada.

We had a variety of dishes including paella, langoustine and ham in sherry, croquette and this version of black pudding.  I would like to tell you that it isn't as good as a Bury Black Pudding but this one was sooooo good.  We had a cheeky Rose wine too.  The place was busy with locals and the service was great.  The restaurant is called Los Manuelles just off Place Nuevo.

We had a little reccie up to the Alhambra and found you could enter parts of it free but not the Alcazaba, the Palace of Nazaries and Generalife.  I will do pictures of the Alhambra on a separate blog.  No words required.

We also went to the vast Cathedral.  We even paid the 5 euro entry fee....and I wasn't a senior citizen this time!   I can't show half the photos but here's a couple.

Every side chapel was amazing nevermind the main nave.

I can't get the whole Cathedral into a photo.

There's lots more to the city that I can't show and lots we didn't get chance to see.  We never saw any Ford Granada's or any Grenadine liquor and we didn't see a Flamenco dance show....when you've seen the dancers at the Benidorm Palace do it!  Granada is supposed to be where the dance started by the gypsies who lived in the caves on the road to the Sacramento Abbey.

Rebekah kindly sent me an authentic Granada photo.....

All the way from a dark and soggy Manchester!

Not Nihilistic!

Wednesday 21st November 2018 - Castillo de Banos, near Motril.

The weather hasn't been too kind over the last couple of days.  We spent last night on a car park overlooking the sea at Almerimar.  It is a nice little resort between tomato growing plastic greenhouses. I now know where all the tomatoes come from, there is mile after mile of plastic (I believe that it is quite a contentious subject), it certainly damages the views.

This is one of the nicer areas of greenhouses, many of the roads between them are full of rubbish.  I have a funny feeling that this may explain the reduced taste in our tomatoes, even the ones that are 'on the vine'.  They will be growing more tomatoes, faster than ever.  Hey ho, that seems to be what the public want....year round tomatoes at a cheap price, nevermind the taste!

The morning had been rainy so we did a spot of 'Supermarket Sweep' by calling in at two supermarkets we had never been in previously, just to see what they were like......a Dia supermarket and a Spanish Aldi.  We didn't want much other than fresh bread but still found something to buy.  We bought a couple of bags of my favourite coffee time treat....

Mmm, Cantuccini, a favourite almondy crunch biscotti.

It dried up in the afternoon but got progressively windier.

This was our view from the van at Almerimar.  Some other people started getting set up for some kite surfing.  We had a walk along the long (new) promenade.  The harbour area looked very pleasant with some nice bars and shops dotted around and we walked along the harbour wall, enjoying being sprayed by the waves as the wind and waves increased.  By the time we got back to the van there were about 10 kite surfers and 3 wind surfers in action.  The waves were amazing and the wind was horizontal but the surfers were really good, doing jumps and riding waves.  It must be exhilarating to do and it  certainly kept us entertained from the front seat of our van for at least a couple of hours.

Last night we did the Sunday Times Concise Crossword...and for perhaps the first time, we finished it. Don't think we are clever, it's only the Concise version but it's a big achievement for us.  I was particularly please to answer a clue...'someone who believes in nothing at all'?  I got the answer....'Nihilist'!  I don't know where it came from but I was very pleased.  It made me wonder if I am a Nihilist but I can't be.....because I believe in Father Christmas and Tooth Fairies!

This morning we walked along the lengthy prom to the next resort.  I know I keep mentioning the same thing...but....the money needed to make these promenades (and roads, and cycle paths, and car parks) must be expensive.  We walked away from the resort for a half hour and still didn't get to the end of the prom.  Much of the area we walked along was deserted with no buildings and there was a high quality cycle track and empty car parks along the route.  We presume they hope to build more apartments and hotels sometime.  It seems to be the same at every resort we go to.  Where is the money coming from?  We presume it's EU money, or at least a large part of it.  We would never be allowed to build such a lot of infrastructure with the hope that one day it might be needed.  There were beach showers every 100 metres and although the proms had recently been built, the showers were already rusting.  I know it might get busy in summer and the car parks might be needed but the section we walked on didn't have a developed beach.  Moving on........

Overnight we ran out of gas in our English Calor gas bottle and I had already bought a gas connector for Spanish gas bottles.  We called at a filling station to buy a new gas bottle and got the normal Spanish response....no smile, this is a problem, no English.  Because I didn't have an existing gas bottle to swap I had to sign a contract and pay extra for the first bottle.  I understand the principle of paying for the first gas bottle but don't necessarily understand why I need a contract or produce my drivers licence?  Anyway we managed to pay the money and get the bottle....without any smiles or pleasantries.

Spanish Gas (Butano) on the left and French gas (Propane) on the right.  The English Calor has moved to the back store.  I daren't go to Portugal in case they have a different gas bottle and connector!  There is a possible solution....to buy a refillable gas system for LPG and fill up at Petrol Stations.  I think I may have to go for it.

We have booked on a site today at Castillo de Banos.  It is a tiny place with few redeeming features.  The beach is narrow and grey and the village seems to have one restaurant.  The site is OK but because it is rainy we aren't seeing it at its best.  We have managed a bike ride along the coast in light rain but didn't see anything to interest us.  Never mind we are just catching up with some of our chores and taking advantage of the facilities to empty and fill our tanks.

Save the Date!

Monday 20th November 2018 - Roquetas del Mar.

We have heard that the lightening display we enjoyed watching last night was actually a series of terrible storms along the Spanish coast.  Apparently Mazarron was affected and the area round Denia where we also stayed had it bad.  We hardly had any rain at Almeria but as we drove down to Roquetas del Mar we saw that it must have been bad here too as workmen were clearing branches and mud from the roads on the coast.  Hope we don't get any more....although the forecast is rather changeable for the next day or two.

We stocked up with supplies at a Lidl, which was very busy.  So busy that people were queuing at the checkouts and Janice got barged by a couple of locals who jostled for an opening checkout, even though they had joined the queue behind us.  It got us talking about a lack of politeness that we have perceived from the Spanish people.  We have experienced a general demeanour amongst some of the Spanish people that they seem unfriendly (not returning smiles, being a little reluctant to help but helping eventually).  Also, rather impatient, eg the barging incident and they often invade our personal space without consideration (they park their cars right next to our van when there is lots of space available elsewhere and yesterday a woman stood right next to our van door whilst texting on her phone, she had no sense of our close presence, I could almost read her texts).  It seems that many Spanish don't practice the niceties of our English manners.  Having said this, I don't think they mean to be rude but just have a different social expectation.  It may help if we had the courtesy to learn more Spanish language!

When we returned to our van in the Lidl car park we saw the legs of a cat climbing up into the engine space of the van.  We think that a cat from the harbour area (there were several of them) may have climbed aboard for the short journey to Lidl and possibly was trying to get a lift back again?  I discouraged it from another ride and it stalked off into the scrub area nearby.

Roquetas is not far along the coast from Almeria and we know the place name as a tourist resort popular with many British people.  We parked on the north end of the long beach in a place where it seemed OK to wild camp.

Like all resorts, there is a good promenade.  Our location has its own facilities too...

Maybe it could double up as either a Punch and Judy show or as a new Tardis for Dr Who.  I have checked the inside and fortunately I came back out in the same location and timeframe.

The beach is long, about 6 miles of sandy beach.  No wonder it is popular but it is very quiet at this time of year.  It wasn't warm enough for anything less than a brisk walk on the prom.  It is pretty sunny but the wind is strong.

We stopped at the Castillo Santa Anna which is only a small fort (closed today).

We found some workmen with a 'Cherry Picker' and noticed they had chopped down some 'dates' from some palm trees.  One man took a bite from on of the dates, so I asked if we could taste one. They gave us one each and as we walked away one of the men followed us and gave us a small branch of dates.  How nice it is to get a small act of kindness.  

It wasn't many but it is the thought that counts.  It has blown my theory about Spanish behaviour out of the water hasn't it!  We tasted the dates and they were far from ripe but have stashed them in our fruit bowl in the van, hopefully they will ripen up.  Has anyone any tips on how to get them ripe?  We could be eating plenty of them coming up to Christmas.

I have also had to reconsider the name of the 'cherry picker', it should be a 'date picker'.

How old?

Sunday 18th November 2018 - Almeria.

We found a lovely place to stay for the night.....on the end of the harbour wall at Almeria.

We do have to pay a parking fee of 6 euros for 24 hours but that's not too bad.  There were a couple of cruise ships in the harbour and in the photo you can see some of the Moorish Alcazaba fortress in the background.  The van doesn't look too bad as I gave it a bit of a wash yesterday.

Some rain had been forecast for today and tomorrow but it has only just started as I write the blog, around 4.30pm but didn't last long.  So, we have managed a good day walking around the city.

The main highlights of the city are the Cathedral and the Alcazaba.  

The Cathedral is built a bit like a fort, with thick walls and a height that isn't conspicuous above other buildings around.  This was to avoid a bombardment from the sea.  There was a charge to enter but we felt that it might be worth the 5 euro fee.  I was pleased the lady on the desk had made a mistake as she had given me a euro change from the 10 euro note I gave her.......however.....

I later felt insulted, when I checked the receipt.  We had been charged as Seniors, 65 years and over!!  Janice has an excuse that she was away from the desk when I paid, I'm sure she would have had to pay full rate.  I am going to have to be more conscientious about moisturising in future.  I think this is the first (and hopefully the last) time that this has happened.  Anyway, I am not taking the euro back.  I think I will apply for my free bus pass when I get home if I look that old!  

The Cathedral was very lovely and it gave me a good church fix.

The Alcazaba was free to enter.  Janice said it might just be free for over 65's, but I am sure it is free for everyone.  It is a large hilltop fort built by the Moors dating back to 995AD as Almeria was an important port for the Caliphate of Córdoba.

If anything, we felt it had been over restored and sanitised, as it gave no impression of how people lived or of the history of the place.  You will be surprised to know it was restored with EU money.

The city was pretty quiet as it was a Sunday afternoon but a few of the bars and cafes were open.  We treated ourselves in a tea shop.  

We had one of the cakes on the top shelf, on the middle.  I don't know what they were called but they were only 50 cents each.  The tea shop was pretty posh.  I thought about trying to explain that I had been to Betty's at Harrogate and see if they knew of the place but thought the chances were slim.  They played some stirring music in the cafe, including the March of the Torreodores and Land of Hope and Glory (maybe they want the UK to stay in Europe and we're giving us a subliminal message by playing a patriotic English song).  Then it was back to the harbour for our night in.

The first of the cruise ships came right past us and later the second....

All very exciting.  Many locals came out to watch them go past.  It coincided with a lightening display out at sea.